Lighthouse lore
There is
something fascinating in lighthouses. In the form of beacons lit on promontories
they have been with us since antiquity. The famous Colossus of Rhodes,
built about 280BC, was a statue of Apollo holding a flaming torch. The
statue was destroyed by an earthquake 80 years later. The equally celebrated
Pharos of Alexandria was a 100m tower on the island of that name, built
in 261BC by Ptolemy Philadelphus and reputedly visible for 68km. It was
partly blown down in AD793 and shattered by earthquakes in 1375. Both
structures were ranked among the seven wonders of the world. Moreover,
the volcano Stromboli in the Lipari Islands, was known as ''the lighthouse
of the Mediterranean".
In our own islands the first century Roman lighthouse at Dover has enjoyed
its own fame. Since then we have seen the multiplication of lighthouses
round our coasts. These were the work of the Corporation of Trinity House,
developed by a guild of mariners concerned with navigational safety, which
received its charter of incorporation from Henry VIII in 1514 and was
awarded the right to control coastal buoys and beacons in 1594.
What prompted my recent interest in the lighthouse phenomenon was the
news that on 22 August festivities were held at the Lizard lighthouse
in Cornwall to celebrate the completion of 250 years since its light first
shone out. A concert and firework display were held at the site.
The Lizard Light was unusual in having two separate light towers joined
by residential buildings for the guardians. Although both towers remain,
one single flashing light in the eastern one was established in 1903,
visible for 40km. The philanthropic Sir John Killigrew in the early 17th
century was responsible for raising a lighthouse at his own expense, but
was thwarted by the unwillingness of passing ships to pay a toll to keep
the venture alive. In 1748 Trinity House came to the rescue of another
constructor, Thomas Fonnereau, and the light was built in 1751 and showed
its first gleams the following year. Eventually a flashing white light
was organised, with a period of three seconds.
If you venture after dark along the cliffs of the Lizard you will experience
the great sweep of white light sending its message to skippers entering
the Channel from the south-west. It is memorable. There is another impressive
feature to experience. That coastal area is subject to many sea fogs,
some of them alarmingly dense and sudden in onset. The Lizard Light has
also a powerful foghorn, uttering two blasts, long and short, every minute.
Since the coastal footpath alongside the lighthouse is narrow and precarious,
a notice warns walkers to beware of unheralded blasts, which might easily
upset their balance and even propel them in the direction of the great
chasm known as the Lion's Den. I was once overtaken by a fog in that critical
situation, and was shaken to the core for a few seconds by the warning
signal bursting from the darkness.
I prefer to meditate in the atmosphere of Tennyson's Ulysses (1842):
"The lights begin to twinkle from the rocks; / The long day wanes; the
slow moon climbs; the deep / Moans round with many voices." And, of course,
the Lizard Light sweeps its magnificent beams across the rugged cliffs.
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