Out on the spice trail
January 6 is the Christian celebration of the feast of Epiphany (“manifestation”), also observed as the 12th day of Christmas, when Christmas trees are removed from the house and decorations are taken down.
Epiphany marks the discovery of the infant Christ by the Magi, arriving in Bethlehem
from the east with their gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh. Because of
the spice connection, Epiphany has long been associated with high-seasoned foods,
including spiced Epiphany cake and spiced cider or ale.
From the earliest days, spices have been valued by humans for many different
reasons. For the most part they have been seen as precious foreign substances,
miraculous because they offered pleasant odours and tastes in small quantities.
And because of their use in the making of incense, they came to be regarded as
favoured by the gods to whom incense was offered.
The term spice was applied to dried bark, leaves, flowers or fruit of aromatic
plants, usually of tropical origin, distinguishing them from herbs, which were
generally used fresh as food flavourings.
Spices carried a high value in the market, being ranked with gold and silver,
and so became an important feature of trading ventures. Possession of spice islands
and other territories came to be violently contested, and was a feature of warfare
and piracy and a factor in the institution of slavery. From 1000BC spice trading
between east and west was dominated by Arabia, until the Romans intervened and
the Phoenicians commanded much of the sea-borne trade.
Vasco da Gama in 1498 voyaged into
the Indian Ocean in search of spices. Christopher Columbus in the Caribbean decided
that many of the aromatic trees
and shrubs he encountered would be highly valued in Spain for dyes and medicines.
On his second voyage Columbus was accompanied by a physician called Chanca, who
remarked on the cinnamon and mastic he encountered.
In 1600 Elizabeth I gave a charter of trade monopoly in the Far East to the East
India Company. The London Guild of Pepperers joined forces with the spicers and
apothecaries and increased the competition.
Meanwhile, the Portuguese from 1552 were landing cloves in Antwerp, making a
substantial profit, and the Dutch trader Cornelius van Houtman was importing
pepper and cloves. Malaya and Zanzibar were important sources of cloves, vanilla
and cinnamon, used not only for incense but
also as an ingredient of chocolate, already a popular beverage.
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