The higher up the mountain the more difficult becomes
survival
According to Andrew Sutherland of Oxford, writing in the BMJ of 26 August, it used to be thought physiologically impossible to climb Mount Everest with or without supplementary oxygen. It was not until 1953 that Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay showed that with oxygen the summit could be achieved, and in 1978 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habelar managed it without oxygen.
Logic would indicate that the Everest climb would subsequently have ceased to
be deadly, but experience has not confirmed this. Between 1980 and 2002, one
death attended every 10 successful ascents, and this 15 climbers have died on
the mountain.It is calculated that anyone making the summit has a one in 20 chance
of not descending alive.
The main reasons for individuals dying during an ascent of Everest are injuries
and exhaustion, but many also die from altitude-related illness — high
altitude cerebral oedema and pulmonary oedema. Details are always difficult to
confirm, but
it is likely that altitude illness may also contribute to deaths from injuries
and exhaustion. At altitudes of above 7,000m, exhaustion may often frustrate
people’s attempts at descent.
Andrew Sutherland takes the view that few climbers deliberately overstretch their
physical powers but many of them overestimate their ability to adapt to altitude.
Without experience of ascents beyond Camp 3 (8300m), climbers may be unable to
assess their ability to descend. When cerebral oedema sets in, the sense of reality
is distorted and hallucinations distract the climber. It may be that it is the
disorientation that persuades climbers that they can reach the top and then descend
successfully. When pulmonary and cerebral oedema have appeared there will be
limited time in which to adapt and descend.
In general, a mountain ascent time should not exceed 60 to 90 minutes per 100m.
At a slower pace than this the chances of survival are much reduced. “However,
with the summit in sight, this advice is too often ignored.”
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