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Vol 278 No 7446 p399-401
7 April 2007

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Chocolate: indulgence or medicine?

In 2003, the UK chocolate confectionery market totalled £3.36bn and some claim our love of chocolate may be a contributory factor in the rising number of people who are obese. Every so often, however, reports of the health benefits of chocolate appear in the media. In this article, Sarah Marshall takes a closer look at whether or not eating chocolate is such a bad thing


Sarah Marshall is a pharmacist and freelance writer from Banchory, Aberdeenshire

Chocolate

Chocolate history

The Maya, an ancient people living in Central America were cultivating Theobroma cacao as early as 600BC, using the beans as currency and the basis of a beverage.

Spanish conquistadores arriving in Mexico in 1519 learnt of a drink used by the Aztecs called xocolatl or kukuh. Prepared from roasted and ground cocoa beans, vanilla, chilli, wild honey and corn, it was widely used in ceremonies and rituals. The recipe was adapted for Spanish tastes by apothecary monks and became popular in the Spanish court. Slowly the beverage spread throughout Europe.

It arrived in 1657, as an expensive luxury in London, where it was served as a rather fatty drink mixed with potato starch and sago flour. The development of a method in 1828 for obtaining chocolate powder by pressing much of the cocoa butter from ground and roasted beans made it possible to formulate a more palatable product.

In 1847, the English firm Fry & Sons produced chocolate for eating by combining chocolate liquor with extra expressed cocoa butter and sugar. In 1876, Daniel Peter of Switzerland added dried milk to produce milk chocolate. This led to the widespread proliferation of chocolate and associated products.

SUMMARY

Chocolate has been eaten at Easter since the early 1800s, when chocolate Easter eggs first appeared in France and Germany. They were initially solid but eventually became the hollow versions we know today, painstakingly prepared by painting chocolate paste onto moulds until a method was invented to allow liquid chocolate to flow into moulds. Now, over 80 million chocolate Easter eggs are sold in the UK alone each year.

Chocolate is prepared from the seeds (cocoa beans) of the cacao tree. Linnaeus named this tree Theobroma cacao, theobroma meaning food of the gods. The cacao tree is indigenous to equatorial regions of the Americas, but is now cultivated in tropical areas throughout the world. The mature tree produces seed pods up to 35cm long and weighing up to 1kg, which grow on both the branches and the trunk and vary in colour from bright yellow to deep purple.

Ripe seed pods are removed from the trees and split open to release the 40–50 beans, which are allowed to ferment for several days so that the flavour develops. The beans are then dried and heated, before the shells are cracked and separated from the heavier nibs. The nibs are then roasted and ground to produce cocoa mass (or chocolate liquor), which comprises cocoa particles suspended in 50–55 per cent cocoa butter.

Cocoa mass is subjected to hydraulic pressing to remove about half of the cocoa butter and produce cocoa cakes, which can then be ground to make cocoa powder. Dark chocolate contains cocoa mass, cocoa butter and sugar, whereas milk chocolate contains additional milk solids, flavourings and, sometimes, other vegetable fats, such as coconut oil. White chocolate is similar to milk chocolate but lacks the cocoa mass. The ingredients are blended, ground to a smooth consistency and stirred (“conched”) to develop the flavour. Lastly, the chocolate is tempered (mixed and cooled) to make it smoother and glossy.

The quality of the chocolate depends on the blend of beans used, the type and amount of milk and other ingredients added, and the kind and degree of roasting, refining, conching or other processing.

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