Is menhaden the most important fish?
A
lot has been said and written about over-fishing around the world and
of the need to encourage diners to switch to species of fish that are
more sustainable. Some species are being renamed to make them sound more
palatable.
For example, the humble pilchard is now the Cornish sardine,
while the slimehead has been renamed the orange roughy. One leading retailer
has seen sales of the Torbay sole increase dramatically since changing
its name from the witch fish.
Some victims of over-fishing do not appear on menus at all, such as
the menhaden, a group of oily, herring-like fish of the genus Brevoortia,
found off the Atlantic and Gulf coasts of North America. They are not
used for human consumption as they die quickly and spoil rapidly, as
well as being extremely bony. It has, however, been described as the
most important fish in the sea, and the range of its uses is impressive
indeed.
Menhaden have been fished since colonial times, when they were used as
a fertiliser: in fact their native American name means “fertiliser”,
and the Indians planted a handful of fish remains in each planting hole
with their maize seeds, knowing that they increased the crop yield.
It is used as a feed additive for poultry and pigs. In dairy cows, it
provides a source of long chain fatty acids which are taken up by the
reproductive tissues of the lactating cow, resulting in improved conception
rates and increased milk yield. The menhaden is also important as a link
in the food chain, feeding upon phytoplankton, thus having a direct action
on water quality, removing huge amounts of nitrogen.
It in turn provides
food for seabirds and mammals and, importantly in North America, for
larger fish that are fished for recreationally. The most recent, and
now one of the major uses, for the menhaden, is as a source of omega-3
and omega-6 fish oils in the multimillion nutritional supplement industry.
They form huge schools, which are easily visible from the air, and factory
ships employ spotter planes to locate the fish, which are then encircled
by the ship’s gigantic net and pumped into the refrigerated hold,
before being transported to the company’s processing plant ashore.
Pressure groups have called for a temporary ban on menhaden fishing in
certain areas to assess the situation, but government scientists and
representatives of the fishing industry say that their evidence suggests
that spawning stocks are healthy, and that any such ban would be pointless.
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