Watercress: 200 years of a great British teatime treat
This year marks the 200th anniversary of the first watercress farm in Britain. It was opened by William Bradbury in 1808 at Springhead, Northfleet, near Gravesend in Kent.
One of the necessary conditions for growing watercress is pure, mineral-rich
spring water.
As its name suggests, Springhead was a good place to start.
Watercress was first cultivated commercially in Germany, from where it
was introduced to France. Napoleon was apparently an enthusiastic consumer
and he was not the first leader to fall under its spell.
The Greek general Xenophon insisted his soldiers eat watercress before
battle to increase their strength and vigour. Roman emperors believed
it helped them to make bold decisions and even earlier, around 400BC,
Hippocrates is said to have ensured a plentiful supply was available
for the patients in his hospital by growing it in a nearby stream.
The heyday of British watercress was probably in the Victorian period
when the spread of the railways helped to ensure its availability across
Britain. It could be bought from street traders who made up bunches to
be eaten as they were or added to sandwiches. It was one of the first
street foods to become widespread and popular.
The watercress industry thrived up to the 1950s but, as newer and more
exotic salad ingredients took its place, the “great British teatime” treat
of watercress sandwiches gradually faded to a much lesser role as a garnish.
It became, for most of us, just a bit on the side of the plate.
However, having at least 15 essential vitamins and minerals, watercress
can be considered a “superfood” and it seems to be gaining
in popularity again. Apart from its peppery taste, said to come from
mustard oils, watercress has, gram for gram, more vitamin C than oranges,
more calcium than milk, more folate than bananas and more iron than spinach.
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